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New York City’s Eleven Madison Park restaurant reportedly still sells meat to diners in a private room even after announcing in May that it would go almost totally vegan.
In a scathing critique from The New York Times, restaurant critic Pete Wells wrote Tuesday that meat was still on the menu for a select few.
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“Until the year ends, the menu offered to customers who book a private dining room includes an optional beef dish, roasted tenderloin with fermented peppers and black lime,” he said. “It’s some kind of metaphor for Manhattan, where there’s always a higher level of luxury, a secret room where the rich eat roasted tenderloin while everybody else gets an eggplant canoe.”
The Madison Avenue establishment reopened its doors to customers in June after a 15-month hiatus.
In a letter on the restaurant’s website, Swiss-born owner and chef Daniel Humm wrote that post-COVID-19 pandemic it was clear that they “couldn’t open the same restaurant in early June.”
“With that in mind, we made the decision to serve a plant-based menu. We asked ourselves: What are the most delicious aspects of our dishes, and how could we achieve the same level of flavor and texture without meat?” he wrote, admitting that “at times I woke up in the middle of night thinking about the risk we were taking abandoning dishes that once defined us.”
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“It is time to redefine luxury as an experience that serves a higher purpose and maintains a genuine connection to the community,” Humm added.
In a May interview with NPR, he said the pandemic had gotten him thinking about sustainability.
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“The way we have sourced our food, the way we’re consuming our food, the way we eat meat, it is not sustainable,” he told the outlet.
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However, the eatery would still serve milk and honey for coffee and tea.
The 10-course vegan meal at Eleven Madison Park costs $335 per person and the restaurant holds three Michelin stars, four stars from the New York Times, seven James Beard awards and a 2017 honor as the best restaurant in the world.
Page Six said Wednesday that it had exclusively obtained the private dining menu that offers a number of meat dishes.
